Костюм: стиль, форма, функция - Кристофер Бруард
26
Hollander A. Op. cit. P. 3. (Холландер Э. Пол и костюм. Эволюция современной одежды [пер. с англ. Е. Канищевой, Л. Сумм]. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2018. C. 7.)
27
Carpenter E. Simplification of Life. London, 1886. Cit. ex Burman B. Better and Brighter Clothes: The Men’s Dress Reform Party, 1929–1940 // Journal of Design History. 1995. Vol. 8. No. 4. P. 275.
28
Kuchta D. The Three-piece Suit and Modern Masculinity: England, 1550–1850. Berkeley, CA, 2002. P. 80.
29
Cit. ex ibid. P. 82.
30
Abler T. S. Hinterland Warriors and Military Dress: European Empires and Exotic Uniforms. Oxford, 1999. P. 11–13.
31
Roche D. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the Ancien Regime. Cambridge, 1994. P. 237.
32
Ibid. P. 229.
33
Ibid. P. 231.
34
Styles J. The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth-century England. New Haven, CT, 2012. P. 49–51.
35
Ibid. P. 202–205.
36
Cit. ex Ibid. P. 206.
37
Harvey J. Men in Black. London, 1995. P. 158. (Харви Д. Люди в черном [пер. с англ. Е. Ляминой и др.]. М.: Новое литературное обозрение, 2010. С. 166.)
38
Ibid. P. 193. (Там же. С. 204–205.)
39
Cit. ex Breward C. On the Bank’s Threshold: Administrative Revolutions and the Fashioning of Masculine Identities // Parallax. 1997. Vol. 5. P. 112. (По Э. Человек толпы [пер. М. Беккер] / Эдгар По. Стихотворения. Проза. М.: Художественная литература, 1976. С. 282.)
40
Ibid. P. 111.
41
Bradley D. H. Vogue: A Clothing Catalogue for Pope and Bradley. London, 1912. P. 12–13.
42
Zakim M. Ready-made Democracy: A History of Men’s Dress in the American Republic, 1760–1860. Chicago, IL, 2003. P. 126.
43
Pearson S. Week Day Living: A Book for Young Men and Women. London, 1882. P. 139.
44
Greenwood J. Odd People in Odd Places; or, The Great Residuum. London, 1883. P. 82–83.
45
Tynan J. Military Dress and Men’s Outdoor Leisurewear: Burberry’s Trench Coat in First World War Britain // Journal of Design History. 2011. Vol. 24. No. 2. P. 140.
46
Cit. ex ibid. P. 141.
47
Ibid. P. 154.
48
Mort F. Cultures of Consumption: Masculinities and Social Space in Late Twentieth Century Britain. London, 1996. P. 135.
49
Ibid. P. 138–139.
50
Amies H. Just So Far. London, 1954. P. 245.
51
Cunningham P. A. Dressing for Success: The Re-suiting of Corporate America in the 1970s’ // Twentieth-century American Fashion / Ed. by L. Welters and P. A. Cunningham. Oxford, 2005. P. 191–208.
52
Boyer G. B. Elegance: A Guide to Quality in Menswear. New York, 1985. P. 55–56.
53
Sloane Ranger Man: игра слов, включающая название площади в престижном районе Лондона — Sloane Square и серию книг и фильмов об «одиноком ковбое» — Lone Ranger. — Прим. пер.
54
York P. Style Wars. London, 1980. P. 61.
55
Ibid. P. 65.
56
Cit. ex Kynaston D. The City of London. Vol. IV: A Club No More, 1945–2000. London, 2001. P. 716.
57
Cit. ex Financial Times Weekend. 1993. March 13. P. XIX.
58
The Times. 2000. September 11. P. 17.
59
Evans C. Fashion Stranger than Fiction: Shelley Fox // The Englishness of English Dress / Ed. by C. Breward, B. Conekin and C. Cox. Oxford, 2002. P. 206–207. Также см.: Carver T. The Postmodern Marx. Manchester, 1998; Stallybrass P. Marx’s Coat // Border Fetishisms: Material Objects in Unstable Spaces / Ed. by P. Spyer. New York, 1998.
60
Stallybrass P. Op. cit. P. 196. Cit. ex Evans C. Fashion at the Edge: Spectacle, Modernity and Deathliness. New Haven, CT; London, 2003. P. 257.
61
Amies H. The Englishman’s Suit. London, 1994. P. 104–110.
62
Samuel Pepys, diary entry 1 July 1661, available at www.pepysdiary.com (accessed 27 August 2013).
63
Samuel Pepys, diary entry 30 March 1666, available at www.pepysdiary.com (accessed 27 August 2013).
64
Settle A. English Fashion. London, 1948. P. 48.
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York P. Icons of Identity // Country Life. 1996. No. 1 (February). P. 28–31.
66
Гидденс Э. Последствия современности / Пер. с англ. Г. К. Ольховикова, Д. А. Кибальчича; вступ. ст. Т. А. Дмитриева. М.: Праксис, 2011. (Giddens, Anthony (1990) The Consequences of Modernity.)
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Hall S. Culture, Community, Nation // Representing the Nation: A Reader / Ed. D. Boswell and J. Evans. London, 1999. P. 42.
68
Van Dyck and Britain / Ed. by K. Hearn. London, 2009. P. 98.
69
Hart A., North S. Seventeenth- and Eighteenth-century Fashion in Detail. London, 2009. P. 130.
70
Maglio D. Luxuriant Crowns: Victorian Men’s Smoking Caps, 1850–1890 // Dress: The Journal of the Costume Society of America. 2000. Vol. XXVII. P. 9–17.
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Armfeldt E. Oriental London // Living London / Ed. G. Sims. Vol. I. London, 1906. P. 81–82.
72
Американская кинокомпания Merchant Film Productions была основана в 1961 году продюсером Исмаилом Мерчантом и режиссером Джеймсом Айвори. Кинокритик Михаил Трофименков так охарактеризовал творческий метод Д. Айвори: «Его
