Fashionopolis. Цена быстрой моды и будущее одежды - Дана Томас
18
Stephanie Clifford, “U.S. Textile Plants Return, With Floors Largely Empty of People,” The New York Times, September 12, 2013, https://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/20/business/us-textile-factories-return.html.
19
Kate Abnett, “Does Reshoring Fashion Manufacturing Make Sense?” The Business of Fashion, March 9, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/intelligence/can-fashion-manufacturing-come-home.
20
“Global Fashion Statistics – International Apparel,” Fashion United, 2018.
21
“Value of the U.S. Apparel Trade Worldwide from 2007 to 2017,” Statista, n.d., https://www.statista.com/statistics/242290/value-of-the-us-apparel-trade-worldwide/.
22
Ассоциация моды и текстиля Великобритании, в электронном письме, 4 марта 2019 г.
23
Steve Denning, “Why Are the US Olympic Uniforms Being Made in China?” Forbes, July 23, 2012, http://www.forbes.com/sites/stevedenning/2012/07/23/why-are-the-us-olympic-uniforms-being-made-in-china.
24
Diana Verde Nieto, “What Does ‘Made in America’ Luxury Really Look Like?” Luxury Society, March 20, 2017, https://www.luxurysociety.com/en/articles/2017/what-does-made-america-luxury-really-look/.
25
Luisa Kroll and Kerry Dolan, “Meet the Members of the Three-Comma Club,” Forbes, March 6, 2018, https://www.forbes.com/billionaires/#720a681d251c.
26
Morgan, The True Cost.
27
Maxine Bédat and Michael Shank, “There Is a Major Climate Issue Hiding in Your Closet: Fast Fashion,” Fast Company, November 11, 2016, https://www.fastcompany.com/3065532/there-is-a-major-climate-issue-hiding-in-your-closet-fast-fashion.
28
SOCAP (Social Capital Markets) – ежегодная конференция, посвященная вопросам привлечения капиталов в социальную политику. – Прим. ред.
29
Julia Jacobo, “How Sustainable Brands Are Turning Their Backs on Fast Fashion Trend,” ABC News, September 13, 2016, https://abcnews.go.com/US/sustainable-brands-turning-backs-fast-fashion-trend/story?id=39590457.
30
Nathalie Remy, Eveline Speelman, and Steven Swartz, “Style That’s Sustainable: A New Fast-Fashion Formula,” McKinsey & Company, October 2016.
31
Kate Abnett, “Three Years After Rana Plaza, Has Anything Changed?” The Business of Fashion, April 19, 2016, https://www.businessoffashion.com/community/voices/discussions/can-fashion-industry-become-sustainable/-years-on-from-rana-plaza-has-anything-changed-sustainability-safety-worker-welfare.
32
Marianna Kerppola et al., “H&M’s Global Supply Chain Management Sustainability: Factories and Fast Fashion,” University of Michigan, February 8, 2014.
33
“The Impact of a Cotton T-Shirt,” World Wildlife Fund, January 16, 2013, https://www.worldwildlife.org/stories/the-impact-of-a-cotton-t-shirt.
34
Echo Huang, “The Once Pristine Waters of Antarctica Now Contain Plastic Fibers,” Quartz, June 7, 2018, https://qz.com/1299485/antarcticas-waters-now-contain-plastic-fibers/.
35
Alexandra Schwartz, “Rent the Runway.”
36
Alden Wicker, “Fast Fashion Is Creating an Environmental Crisis,” Newsweek, September 1, 2016, https://www.newsweek.com/2016/09/09/old-clothes-fashion-waste-crisis-494824.html.
37
Kerr and Landry, “Pulse of the Fashion Industry,” 12.
38
“Overview of the Used Clothing Market in East Africa,” United States Agency for International Development, July 2017.
39
“Global Business of Secondhand Clothes Thrive in Africa,” Africa News, April 26, 2018, http://www.africanews.com/2018/04/26/global-business-of-secondhand-clothes-thrive-in-africa-business-africa//.
40
Abdi Latif Dahir and Yomi Kazeem, “Trump’s ‘Trade War’ Includes Punishing Africans for Refusing Second-hand American Clothes,” Quartz Africa, April 5, 2018, https://qz.com/africa/1245015/trump-trade-war-us-suspends-rwanda-agoa-eligibility-over-secondhand-clothes-ban/.
41
“Textiles: Material-Specific Data,” epa.gov. n.d.
42
Press, “Why the Fashion Industry Is Out of Control.”
43
Anat Keinan and Sandrine Crener, “Stella McCartney,” Harvard Business School, November 22, 2016.
44
Jessica Dickler, “Black Friday Weekend: Record $52.4 Billion Spent,” CNN Money, November 27, 2011, https://money.cnn.com/2011/27/pf/black_friday/index.htm.
45
Вирджил Абло скончался в 2021 г. – Прим. ред.
46
Интервью, данное Рафаэллой Мандриотой автору, Вильпент, 13 февраля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Мандриоты происходят из этого интервью.
47
Интервью, данное Мэри Катранзу автору, Лондон, 7 февраля 2018 г. Все цитируемые высказывания Катранзу происходят из этого интервью, телефонных звонков или электронных писем, если не указано иное.
48
Hanna Rose Iverson, “Started From the Bottom: Mary Katrantzou to Hannah Griffiths,” Brighton Fashion Week, n.d., http://www.brightonfashionweek.com/blog/started-mary-k.
49
Samantha Conti, “Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China,” Women’s Wear Daily, January 22, 2018.
50
Nancy Chilton, “Wendy Yu Endows Lead Curatorial Position at the Costume Institute,” The Metropolitan Museum of Art, March 7, 2018.
51
Conti, “Wendy Yu Invests in Mary Katrantzou, Eyes Growth in China.”
52
Sarah Mower, “Mary Katrantzou,” Vogue.com, September 15, 2018, https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/spring-2019-ready-to-wear/mary-katrantzou.
53
Vanessa Friedman, “The Meghan Markle Non-Effect,” The New York Times, September 18, 2018, https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/18/fashion/london-fashion-week-spring-2019-erdem-christopher-kane.html.
54
Samantha Conti, “The Collections: Mary Katrantzou,” Women’s Wear Daily, September 17, 2018.
55
Stephen Yafa, Cotton: The Biography of a Revolutionary Fiber (New York: Penguin, 2005), 45.
56
Thomas Carlyle, The Works of Thomas Carlyle (Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2010), 182.
57
“Working Conditions for Children,” Cromfordmills.org.uk, n.d., https://www.cromfordmills.org.uk/sites/default/files/attachments/Source%202%20-%20Child%20Workers.pdf.
58
Yafa, Cotton, 55.
59
Yafa, Cotton, 63.
60
Yafa, Cotton, 67.
61
Pietra Rivoli, The Travels of a T-Shirt in the Global Economy: An Economist Examines the Markets, Power, and Politics of World Trade (Hoboken, NJ: John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 2015), 96.
62
Yafa, Cotton, 107.
63
Daniel Soyer, “Introduction: The Rise and Fall of the Garment Industry in New York City,” in A Coat of Many Colors: Immigration, Globalization, and Reform in New York City’s Garment Industry, Daniel Soyer, ed. (New York: Fordham University Press, 2005), 6–7.
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